At a cookery-school I attended, we had a whole lesson devoted to pancakes. We separated the yolks of the eggs from the whites, mixed the yolks with the flour and then added milk to form a batter. Then we beat the whites to a stiff froth till our arms ached (mine did at any rate); this was to be stirred in gently that the pancake might be very light.

The joke was (as I rubbed my aching arm) that the pancakes were not nearly so good as those I make hastily at home, with no switching of eggs at all. Mix a pinch of salt and of baking powder with the flour, and with skim milk form a batter that will run easily from the spoon; pour the mixture into a jug.

Put a piece of dripping into the frying-pan and allow it to get smoking hot; then pour in…

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